Костюм: стиль, форма, функция - Кристофер Бруард
113
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114
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115
Cit. ex Tulloch C. My Man, Let Me Pull your Coat to Something: Malcolm X // Fashion Cultures: Theories, Explanations and Analysis / Ed. by S. Bruzzi and P. Church Gibson. London, 2000. P. 304.
116
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119
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120
Chenoune F. A History of Men’s Fashion. Paris, 1993.
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Celant G. Towards the Mass Dandy // Giorgio Armani. New York, 2003. P. XVIII.
122
Colaiacomo P. Factious Elegance. P. 56.
123
Pasolini P. The Divine Mimesis, Canto II, 1963. 24. Cit. ex ibid. P. 58.
124
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125
Colaiacomo P. Factious Elegance. P. 105–107.
126
Celant G. Towards the Mass Dandy. P. XVII.
127
Ibid. P. XV.
128
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130
Buckley R., Gundle S. Flash Trash: Gianni Versace and the Theory and Practice of Glamour // Fashion Cultures. P. 331–348.
131
Nelson K. Playboy // Gucci: The Making Of. New York, 2011. P. 208, 280.
132
Wilkes J. Tom Ford // Gucci. P. 54.
133
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Garber M. Vested Interests: Cross-dressing and Cultural Anxiety. London, 1992; Bulloch V., Bulloch B. Cross Dressing, Sex and Gender. Philadelphia, PA, 1993.
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Rolley K. Love, Desire and the Pursuit of the Whole: Dress and the Lesbian Couple // Chic Thrills: A Fashion Reader / Ed. by J. Ash and E. Wilson. London, 1992. P. 34.
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de Frece V. Recollections of Vesta Tilley. London, 1934. P. 125.
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Gundle S. Glamour: A History. Oxford, 2008. P. 325. (Гандл С. Гламур / Пер. с англ. М. Гардер и др. М.: Новое литературное обозрение, 2011. С. 279.)
140
Андерсен Г. К. Сказки. Истории: Пер. с дат / [Сост. и примеч. Л. Брауде; вступ. ст. К. Паустовского. Ил.: В. Пивоваров]. М.: Худож. лит., 1973. С. 68.
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Андерсен Г. К. Цит. изд. С. 71.
143
Loos A. The Principle of Dressing. Cit. ex Wigley M. White Walls, Designer Dresses: The Fashion of Modern Architecture. Cambridge, MA, 2001. P. 13.
144
Wigley M. Op. cit. P. 12.
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Le Corbusier. The Decorative Art of Today / Transl. James Dunnett. London, 1987. P. XXIII.
147
Le Corbusier. The Decorative Art of Today / Transl. James Dunnett. London, 1987. P. 7.
148
Ibid. Р. 8.
149
Ibid. Р. 87.
150
Wigley M. Op. cit. P. 90–91.
151
Colomina B. The Split Wall: Domestic Voyeurism // Sexuality and Space / Ed. by B. Colomina. New York, 1992. P. 73–130.
152
Stern R. Against Fashion: Clothing as Art, 1850–1930. Cambridge, MA, 2004. P. 31–32.
153
Cit. ex ibid. Р. 157–158.
154
Cit. ex ibid. Р. 167.
155
Chenoune F. A History of Men’s Fashion. Paris, 1993. P. 170.
156
Brevik-Zender H. Writing Fashion from Balzac to Mallarme // Impressionism, Fashion and Modernity / Ed. by G. Groom. New Haven, CT, 2012. P. 54.
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Cit. ex Thiébaut P. An Ideal of Virile Urbanity // Impressionism, Fashion and Modernity /
